Monteverde – in pursuit of the “Resplendent Quertzal” (Hugh)

Sarah had spotted a shop in Jaco called “Walter’s surf shack” so on leaving Jaco we had to go back and find this for the inevitable photo. Walter is Sarah’s father’s name and one of Monty’s too, poor fellow.

More chaos on the road to Monteverde. This time the existence or otherwise of deities was not so much on my mind as memories of that film “Duel” where an enormous truck with “MACK” written on the front chases a bloke in a car through the mid-West. In the film there are lots of shots of the truck appearing suddenly in the rear view mirror – this was my constant vision throughout our journey from Jaco and so I was forever being forced into dubious overtaking manoeuvres to get rid of these nightmarish apparitions.

Lunch in a reasonable Tico joint after 90 minutes driving, then off-tarmac and onto dirt roads for the last 50kms. Then and since, have been extremely grateful for 4WD motor, which has been firmly locked in 4WD mode for the last 3 days. On the dirt road, initially saw no cars for 30 minutes, although spotted some pretty genuine looking cowboys, then bizarrely, suddenly onto tarmac again for the lights of Santa Elena.

A few silly signs along the way...

Arrive at Hotel Fonda Vela which is full of birders and other hearties but very comfortable and we have vast rooms and 2 beds too many. Kids enjoying phoning between rooms until I have had enough and yell loudly enough to scare off any birds within 2 miles. Before that, heard all kinds of weird sounds, including plenty of what we now know to be the “3 wattled bell bird”. Good name that. I am also getting wattles from eating too many tortillas and doing no exercise.

Early breakfast then a 0730 bus up to some park for a 3kms canopy walk and then more zip-wiring. Saw very little on the elevated bridges – a few eagles, humming birds (which are very cool), an unconfirmed Quertzal sighting. Who exactly came up with the name “The Resplendent Quertzal” for Costa Rica’s national bird? Someone reading too much Lewis Carroll I reckon. The “Quertzal” bit comes from native Injun, but “Resplendent”? Is that a bad translation, or did some ludicrous English birder coin that one? I don’t think I’ve ever used “resplendent” in conversation and make a mental note to try and get it into a client letter when I return to work, ideally in the same sentence as “diaphanous”.

No mammals, other than the many “monkeys” spotted by Eliza. We are learning to interpret any mention of “you are certain to see…X” in the guidebooks as a firm guarantee that there are no Xs within miles. No surprise either, although the birdlife seems reasonably content to have tourists trekking through the place, why on earth a howler or any other type of monkey, sloth, or anything else with half a brain would hang around when punters are zipping past (the American ones whooping) within earshot I have no idea. I think the Ticos have messed this place up, presumably in the face of clear demand from the tourists for “adrenalin” activities which have supplanted the peaceful “nature spotting” ones; Monteverde is becoming more akin to NZ’s Queenstown or Zim’s Vic Falls than a destination for lovers of nature. Great fun though, of course, and we add our dollars to the equation by going zipping, canyoning, horse-riding, canopy walking etc. etc.

Zip wires a bit more chaotic than in Jaco. Less clipping on despite serious heights, and was a bit nervous to lose touch with the kids a few times – at this venue, kids are “taxied” by guides who take one in front and one behind. Romantic moment of the day was zipping together with Sarah on the longest (506 metres) zip which goes on for absolutely ever. I was in charge of braking. We have come a long way in our 20 years together. That was the closest I have yet come to receiving recognition from Sarah of some kind of trust in my judgement of speed/danger.

We have been horseriding, which was the kids’ highlight by some distance.
By some years, Monty was the youngest that they’d ever had riding his own horse, I gather, and the guides thought he was a dude. This was Western style riding, so our rising trots looked a bit silly. Had a couple of opportunities to thrash about, and Jemima joined us on one of these. Initially tough to persuade her to join in, but after one go she wanted to do it all day long.
Great fun cantering Western style, you feel like a real vacquero and even whooped a few times (ibid).

Girls went canyoning in the afternoon, and got plenty wet.

More lying about age to get on the trip - this time the minimum recommended age was 12 so although Sarah and the girls for under the wire, this was a bit of a push for Monty and he failed on this occasion. I stayed back with him and we sneaked down the return path to grab some shots of the girls abseiling down some impressive looking falls.

Finished the day with a great ‘Tico meal in a local joint in town recommended by this morning’s horseriding guides and, surrounded by Monteverde’s locals, enjoyed tortillas, espagueti with butter, and pescado all for $28 washed down by a couple of cervezas and gallons of fanta for los ninos.


Off to Arenal next, for 4 nights at the Arenal Observatory Lodge. Another environment, this time volcanoes and hot springs.