Surfing in Jaco (Hugh)

A slightly frustrating experience to be frank. While we were here, huge swells were coming in off the Pacific, and Jaco beach, famous for presenting perfect head high swell, could not hold waves of this size and was closing out completely. I tried a short board, then a long board, but was just getting crucified, so called in some expert help in the form of pregnant surf teacher Andrea and her diminutive sidekick Ariel (yes really) who was standing in as water buddy while she was off games. I was back with a short board by now, and tasked these guys with finding me some rideable swell and teaching me how to improve my duck-dive to make some headway through these monstrous waves.

It turned out that even with expert local help, finding a good spot was not easy. As with most places, conditions vary according to the tide, the size of the swell, the wind etc., and the first place (Punta Leona) was no good. We only found this out after a 30 minute drive, then you paddle across one bay before clambering over a small cliff which gives you access to the next bay. The tide was too far in for the wave to be running so we turned round and drove 40 minutes back along the coast to Esperillos North. Here the swell was huge, well above head height, and really messy too, but we had a go. Ariel gave me some great tips on duck-diving and with a bit more practice things are going to be a lot easier when I get back to Crackington. But an hour was enough for me – I was so tired after this that I couldn’t even push myself up off the board to stand up. I wrenched my shoulder, lost both contact lenses and ripped both knees on the rocks. I wish I was 17 again.

They are really proud of the surf that they have here in Costa Rica, and rightly so. The world championships are being held at Playa Hermosa where we had lunch a few days ago, and the swell here is absolutely terrifying. If I had a little longer, I would have headed up to Boca Barranca – this boasts a 500 yard left (one of the longest in the world) starting at a river mouth infested with crocs. As a result, you are warned to look out for a few dodgy looking heads in the line-up.

The kids have been boogie-boarding. Eliza had about 3 runs before Monty took her out, but Monty and Jemima have returned to the fray and have had great fun. Serious undertow (makes Strangles Beach look safe, what would Papa say), but the waves are so strong that you just can’t miss them. Monty has also been riding in on knee high waves standing up on my long board and has given a couple of on-looking local Grandmas a load of laughs.